Food
Tour of India :
Diversity of Indian Cuisine
by
Anjana Srikanth
This
article is published with permission of
Anjana Srikanth. Ms. Srikanth was former
employee of Stylus
Inc. Custom Software Development
Most
Indian cuisine are related by the similar
usage of spices and the use of a greater
variety of vegetables than many other
cuisine. Religious and caste restrictions,
weather, geography and the impact of foreigners
have affected the eating habits of Indians.
For
example, Brahmins (one of the highest
orders of caste) are strict vegetarians
usually, but in the coastal states of
West Bengal and Kerala, they consume a
lot of fish. Southern Indians generally
speaking, have been orthodox in their
tastes, probably because eating meat when
it is hot all year round can be difficult.
In the North, the weather varies from
a scorching heat to a nail-biting cold,
with a sprinkling of showers in between.
So, the food here is quite rich and heavy.
Also, the Mughal influence has resulted
in meat-eating habits among many North
Indians. Also, a variety of flours are
used to make different types of breads
like chapathis, rotis, phulkas, puris
and naan.
In the arid
areas of Rajasthan and Gujarat, a great
variety of dals and preserves (achars)
are used to substitute the lack of fresh
vegetables and fruits. Tamilian food uses
a lot of tamarind to impart sourness to
a dish, whereas Andhra food can be really
chili-hot. It is believed that a hot and
spicy curry may be one of the best ways
to combat the flu virus! From, ancient
times Indian food has been on principle,
divided into the Satwik and Rajsik kinds.
The former was the food of the higher
castes like the Brahmins and was supposed
to be more inclined towards spirituality
and health. It included vegetables and
fruits but, not onions, garlic, root vegetables
and mushrooms. The more liberal Rajsik
food allowed eating just about anything
under the sun, with the exception of beef.
The warrior-kings like the Rajputs whose
main requirements were strength and power
ate this food.
Just
as Japanese sushi relies on the freshness
of the meat and Chinese food relies on
the various sauces to impart the right
flavor and taste, Indian food relies on
the spices in which it is cooked. Spices
have always been considered to be India’s
prime commodity. It is interesting to
see an Indian cook at work, with a palette
of spices, gratuitously sprinkling these
powders in exact pinches into the dish
in front of him/her. A foreigner can discover
the many differences in the foods of various
regions only after landing in India, as
most of the Indian food available abroad,
is the North Indian and Pakistani type.
The variation in Indian food from region
to region can be quite staggering.
Many Indian
dishes require an entire day’s preparation
of cutting vegetables, pounding spices
on a stone or just sitting patiently by
the fire for hours on end. On the other
hand, there are simple dishes which are
ideal for everyday eating.
Eating from
a ‘thali’(a metal plate or
banana leaf) is quite common in most parts
of India. Both the North Indian and South
Indian thali contain small bowls arranged
inside the rim of the plate(or leaf),
each filled with a different sort of spiced
vegetarian food, curd and sweet. At the
center of the thali you would find a heap
of rice, some puris(wheat bread rolled
into small circular shapes and deep-fried
in hot oil) or chapathis(wheat bread rolled
out into large circular shapes and shallow-fried
over a hot ‘tava). Indians wash
their hands immediately after and before
eating a meal as it is believed that food
tastes better when eaten with one’s
hands.
‘Paan’
is served as a digestive after some meals.
The dark-green leaf of the betel-pepper
plant is smeared with a little bit of
lime and wrapped around a combination
of spices like crushed betel-nuts, cardamom,
aniseed, sugar and grated coconut. It
is an astringent and is believed to help
in clearing the system. Mumbai is known
to be a good place for connoisseurs of
paan.
An everyday
meal of a Punjabi farmer would be centered
around bread, corn bread, greens and buttermilk(lassi).
Buttermilk is whipped yogurt, and can
be had sweetened or with salt and is usually
very thick. Wheat is the staple food here.
Shredded vegetables mixed with spices
and stuffed into the dough, which is then
rolled and roasted to make the delicious
stuffed parathas. Some Punjabis also eat
meat dishes, an Indian cottage cheese
called paneer, pilaus garnished with fried
onions and roasted nuts like cashew and
topped with silver leaf and rose petals.
Another specialty from this region is
‘khoya’ a kind of thick cream,
mainly used in the preparation of sweets.
‘Tandoori’ food, a favorite
with many foreigners is a gift from the
Punjab. Various meats are marinated with
spices, ginger and garlic pastes and curd
and roasted over a primitive clay-pot(tandoor)
with a wood-fire burning underneath. The
special wheat bread cooked over the tandoor
is called ‘Naan’.
In the beautiful
and rich valley of Kashmir, all dishes
are built around the main course of rice.
A thick-leafed green leafy vegetable called
‘hak’ grows in abundance here
and is used to make the delicious ‘saag’.
The boat-dwelling people use the lotus
roots as a substitute for meat. Morel
mushrooms called ‘gahchi’
are harvested and consumed around summer
time. The tea drunk in Kashmir is not
orange pekoe or Twinning, but a spice-scented
green tea called ‘kahava’,
which is poured from a large metal kettle,
called ‘samovar’. Fresh fish
found in the many lakes and streams here
are also consumed with relish. Lamb and
poultry are cooked in the Mughlai style.
The Kashmiri equivalent of the thali is
a 36-course meal called the ‘waazwaan’.
Bengalis eat
a lot of fish and one of the delicacies
called the ‘hilsa’ is spiced
and wrapped in pumpkin leaf and cooked.
Another unusual ingredient used in Bengali
cooking is the bamboo shoot. Milk sweets
from this region like the Roshgolla, Sandesh,
Cham-cham are world famous. In the south
of India, rice is eaten for breakfast,
lunch and dinner. Raw rice, parboiled
rice, Basmathi rice are some of the different
types of rice eaten here. Parboiled rice
is raw rice treated through a process
wherein the ingredients and aroma of the
husk are forced into the rice. Steamed
rice dumplings or idlis, roasted rice
pancakes or dosais are eaten along with
coconut chutneys for breakfast. A dosai
stuffed with spiced potatoes, vegetables
or even minced lamb constitutes the famous
‘masala dosai’. Coconut, either
in a shredded, grated or blended form
is a must in most dishes here. Tender
coconut water is drunk for it’s
cooling effect(now available in most supermarkets
in cartons) on the system. The Chettinad
dishes from Tamil Nadu consist of a lot
of meat and poultry cooked in tamarind
and roasted spices.
Most Andhra
food tends to be quite hot and spicy.
Eating a banana or yogurt after such a
meal can quench the fires raging within
the system. Hyderabad, the capital city,
is the home of the Muslim Nawabs(rulers)
and is famous for it’s superb biriyani,
simply delicious grilled kababs, kurmas
and rich deserts(made with apricots).
In Bombay,
the food is a happy combination of north
and south. Both rice and wheat are included
in their diets. A lot of fish is available
along the long coastline and the Bombay
Prawn and Pomfret preparations are delicious.
Further down south along the coast, in
Goa, a Portuguese influence is evident
in dishes like the sweet and sour Vindaloo,
duck baffad, sorpotel and egg molie.
In Kerala,
lamb stew and appams, Malabar fried prawns
and idlis, fish molie and dosai, rice
puttu and sweetened coconut milk are the
many combinations eaten at breakfast.
Puttu is glutinous rice powder steamed
like a pudding in a bamboo shoot.
Sweets are
very popular all over India and are usually
cooked in a lot of fat. ‘Jalebis’,
luscious pretzel shaped loops fried to
a golden crisp and soaked in saffron syrup
can be had from any street vendor in North
India. ‘Kheer’ or ‘payasam’
are equivalents of the rice pudding and
‘Kulfi’ is an Indian ice cream
made in conical moulds and frozen.
Tea is drunk
as a beverage in India. Tea from the hills
of Darjeeling and Kalimpong are boiled
in milk and water and served with a liberal
dose of sugar. Filtered coffee is a favorite
among South Indians and is a very sweet,
milky version of coffee.
Many varieties
of foreign whiskies, rum, even Tequila
is available in India now. Indian beers
like ‘Kingfisher’ and ‘Kalyani’
are mild in comparison to the Australian
ones. Indian wines have begun making a
foray into the market now. ‘Grover
vineyards’ have a good red and a
decent pink. One doesn’t need an
alcohol permit to consume liquor here,
but permits are issued on request. The
‘All India Liquor Permit’
is an interesting document that states
the ‘requirement for a person to
drink for medical reasons’. Prohibition
has been imposed in some states like Gujarat,
Andhra Pradesh and Haryana. Among the
local spirits available here is the famous
‘Feni’ from Goa concocted
from cashew and coconuts (an ideal beach
drink). ‘Toddy’ is tapped
from coconut palms and is best drunk in
the early hours of the morning. ‘Tharra’
is a deadly drink made from cane, orange
or pineapple. This can make you stink
to glory and is famous for it’s
killing capabilities.
Most of the
spices used in Indian food have been used
for their medicinal properties in addition
to the flavor and taste they impart. Ginger
is believed to have originated in India
and was introduced to China over 3000
years ago. In India, a knob of fresh ginger
added to tea is believed to relieve sore
throats and head colds, not to mention
it’s aphrodisiacal properties! Turmeric
is splendid against skin diseases and
neem leaves are used to guard against
small pox.
It is these
complexities of regional food in India
that make it a so very fascinating try!